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Bill buford author7/7/2023 ![]() ![]() There’s a short apprenticeship with a talented boulanger before he enrolls at the famed cooking school L’Institut Paul Bocuse, which he skips out on for a longer stage at the legendary La Mère Brazier. Buford stages - that is, works for low or no pay in exchange for training - in Richard’s kitchen, helping inspire the author to transplant his wife and their two young sons from New York City to Lyon, a cradle of classic French cooking and Bocuse’s home.īuford’s Lyonnaise journey zigs and zags. ![]() ![]() “I suspected that the black show-no-stains shirt, if you got close to it, would have yielded up an impressively compressed bacterial history,” he writes.Īfter the voluminous and irrepressible Richard jokingly introduces himself as Paul Bocuse, one of the greatest Gallic chefs of the modern era, the two strike up a food-forward friendship. Buford’s first impression isn’t swooning. The saga begins with the former New Yorker editor literally bumping into French-born chef Michel Richard, who rose to the heights of his profession in Washington, DC, with his award-winning, boundary-pushing French restaurant, Citronelle. The subtitle of Bill Buford’s new Dirt: Adventures in Lyon as a Chef in Training, Father, and Sleuth Looking for the Secret of French Cooking attempts to prepare the reader for the book’s sweep, but this sprawling memoir exceeds even those generous borders. ![]()
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